Eating our way home – my top 10 things to eat in Laos

Laos //

It seems funny now, from the cold and snow of Siberia, to think back to our time in Laos. It was only just over a month ago, but it feels like a different world. I know I’ve said this about a few countries recently, but Laos completely stole my heart, in the few short weeks we were there it quickly became one of my very favourite South East Asian countries.

Its a beautifully laid back kind of place. We travelled from the south, starting with the sleepy 4000 islands that dot the Mekong. We stayed on Don Khong island, and were pretty much the only tourists there. We pottered around the island on creaking bicycles, weaving between potholes and children riding to school. We woke up early in the morning, watched the sunrise over the river. Meandering down puddly paths through paddy fields, we followed the local women to the market, live chickens stashed in their handbags, frogs strung in string baskets.

Sunrise in Laos //

From there we travelled north, exploring Pakse and the coffee making Bolivan Plateau region with its spectacular, breath-taking waterfalls.

Laos waterfalls //

Continuing up the country, we explored central Laos on the back of a motorbike, following the Laos loop trail. This was probably my favourite part of the country, stunning karst scenery, curving roads twisting into mountains, rice paddies gleaming in the late afternoon sunlight, and little villages where children splashed and shrieked in the rivers.

I was quite a fan of my pink helmet too!

The Laos Loop //

We stopped briefly in the capital, Vietienne, to witness the start of the celebrations of the boat festival. The city took on a party atmosphere, all along the riverside a carnival was set up. Stalls selling snacks lined the streets, and whole families came out to join in the games. We saw the rowers preparing to race in the back packer pit stop of Vang Vieng, then slowed right down in beautiful, beautiful Luang Prabang. A town made for lazy days, dreamy temple wanderings and evenings spent by the riverside, nibbling from snack vendors and sipping cold beers.

Here we were lucky enough to watch the end of the boat festival. By nightfall the town the streets filled with candles. Large paper boats, lit with candles and lanterns, were paraded through the streets and launched into the Mekong river to take away the bad luck, and usher in good luck for the year. In a temple we watched young monks eagerly light sky lanterns, and send them up into the night.

light festival in Luang Prabang //

Laos //

light festival, Laos //

Of course, another thing we loved about this beautiful country was its delicious food.

Here are my top ten things to eat to Laos!


1. Ping Paa – grilled fish 

Ping Paa, or grilled fish, was one of our favourite Laos treats. Whole fish are stuffed with lemon grass, then covered with salt. Cooked on a grill, they stay incredibly moist, gently infused with the lemongrass taste. We never quite managed to find out what type of fish was used, but the flesh was white and deliciously meaty under temptingly crispy skin.

Ping Paa - Laos //

Ping Paa - Laos //


2. Ping Paa – grilled chicken 

Ping Kai - Laos bbq chicken //

We also loved Ping Kai, grilled chicken. You wouldn’t have to search too hard to find any part of the chicken you may desire secured on a stick and grilled over a flame.

At every bus stop in Laos you will be greeted by a host of ladies. As the bus slows they’ll push their hands through the window, offering you handfuls of grilled chicken on sticks. This ubiquitous snack is a Laos staple. Whilist the cold roadside offerings may be a good on a long bus ride, the grilled meats you find in the towns are delicious.

Our favourites were the half or whole chicken. Its rare to find chicken so beautifully fresh, tender and juicy.

Ping Kai - Laos bbq chicken //


3. Laap – Laos meat salad 

Laap - a delicious Laos salad made with minced meat and fresh herbs //

We ate Laap nearly every day. A delicious salad made with ground meat and fresh herbs. The best we tasted was on the Island of Don Khone. We went to a little roadside restaurant in the middle of nowhere. The only other people there were the owners children, home for lunch and tucking into handfuls of sticky rice. We ordered the Laap, and watched as the cook wandered around the garden, picking the herbs for our salad. Of course with the very freshest ingredients the salad was mouthwateringly good.

Laap - a delicious Laos salad made with minced meat and fresh herbs //


4. Sticky rice 

In Laos most meals come with a basket of sticky rice. To eat the rice you will a ball from the wicker basket with your fingers, roll it around in the palm of your hand, and dunk it into sauce.

Sticky rice containers, Laos //

Sticky rice wasn’t just to be eaten with meals, it also made an excellent roadside snack, cooked in its own convenient take away packaging.

Sticky rice in bamboo, a delicious Laos snack //

Sticky rice in bamboo, a delicious Laos snack //

The rice is cooked in a stick of bamboo. The bamboo layers are peeled away, and the coconut cooked sticky rice is pulled out with your fingers – delicious!

Sticky rice in bamboo, a delicious Laos snack //

Another way I loved eating sticky rice were in these rice cakes. Left over sticky rice would be dried in the sun, then deep fried until the rice puffed up. Like savoury rice crispy cakes, I stashed a big supply for every bus ride.

Dried sticky rice cakes //


5. Noodle Soup

On our motorbike travels food choice was limited. We stopped at to eat at the roadsides. No menus, hardly any english spoken except for ‘soup’? We nodded hungrily.

Noodle soup eaten in Laos //

Noodles were served in a clear, meaty broth. The soups were spinkled with spring onion, and served with a variety of meats, sausage and eggs.

Each bowl was served with a huge pile of leafy veg and herbs to stir into the soup ourselves.

loas food //


Noodle soup eaten in Laos //


6. Laos coffee

Everyday in Laos started with a Laos coffee.

Deliciously rich coffee, poured over a generous slug of condensed milk. A vigorous stir creates a rich, smooth, sugary coffee.

I’m not a coffee lover, but I couldn’t resist these coffees.

 I also tried tea with condensed milk the way the locals drink it, but for me it really doesn’t work! The tea becomes tooth-achingly, sickeningly sweet. A few sips was all I could handle.

Loas coffee //

Loas coffee //


7. Laos sandwiches 

Another breakfast staple were these delicious Laos style sandwiches. At around 5am, as the sun was just starting to come up, women would set up their baguette stands.

A delicious crust loaf would be spilt in half, then spread with spicy sauces and pates. The sandwiches were filled to the brim with cold meats, cucumber and pickles. Sometimes a fried egg would be added in too. They were meaty, hearty and woke us up with the tingle of spice. The perfect way to start the day!

loas food //

loas food //


8. Lemongrass stuffed chicken

My favourite recipe from my cooking course at Tamarind cooking school. If you haven’t seen it yet, you can read more about it here.

Chicken is pounded with herbs and spices, then stuffed into a delicately cut stem of lemon grass. The bulb is dipped in egg, then deep fried. The results are mouth watering. This is defiantly a recipe I’ll be making again once I’m home.

Tamarind Cooking School, Laos //


9. Coconut Pancakes 

My dream street food, we ate these little pancakes every night we were in Luang Prabang.

Coconut pancakes, delicious Laos street food //

Crisp on the outside, but gooey and tender in the middle.

The batter is cooked on a hot griddle, flipped once, then served in little baskets made of banana leaf. I’m going to have to try and recreate the recipe at home.

Coconut pancakes, delicious Laos street food //

Coconut pancakes, delicious Laos street food //


10. Beer Laos 

Of course no post on Laos food would be complete without at least a small nod to our favourite Laos beverage; Beer Laos. The light, tasty beer is a source of national pride.

We drank Beer Laos everyday; sat by the Mekong as the sun went down, sipped through sun burnt lips after a long day on the back of a motorbike, under the glow of candles the night of the festival. Perhaps this is the true taste of Laos!

beer laos //

So there we are, my top ten foods from Laos!

Have you visited Laos? What were your favourite things to eat?

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Jammy Dodger Cake

Jammy Dodger Cake //

 The humble Victoria sponge taken to new levels with this jammy dodger cake. With jammy dodgers baked into the sponge, and lashings of jam and vanilla buttercream, this cake is a deliciously sweet and sticky treat. 

This is my 200th blog post!

200 hundred posts, mostly recipes. That’s getting on for 200 sweet things; cakes, cookies, brownies, ice cream and cupcakes. Countless boxes of treats packed up and sent to work with Andy, and probably a few too many cookies sneaked out the tin after dinner. Pounds and pounds of sugar, and a ridiculous amount of chocolate. Not to mention the recipes that didn’t quite go right and never made it to the blog (but still got gobbled up anyway!).

Of course, I see no better way to celebrate than with more cake!

Jammy Dodger Cake //

This cake is inspired by one of my favourite biscuits, the jammy dodger. It’s a sticky, gooey, trashy kind of cake. The type of cake that smacks of nostalgia, reminding  you of childhood parties, and party bag induced sugar highs.

Jammy Dodger Cake //

Jammy Dodger Cake //

The cake itself reflects the sugary flavours of the biscuits. I’ve swirled strawberry jam through the sponge mixture making it all deliciously sticky. The cake is filled and topped with more jam, and generous amounts of vanilla cream cheese buttercream.

Jammy Dodger Cake //

In the bottom layer of the cake there are actual jammy dodger biscuits baked into the sponge. As the sponge cake bakes, the biscuits melt a little into the sponge. When you eat a slice there’s a little bit of biscuit still there, a few puddles of sticky jam, and a gooey sweet, vanilla sponge. If you’d prefer your sponge a little firmer, feel free to leave the jammy dodgers out of the cake itself. The jammy sponge with its jam and buttercream filling would be delicious anyway.

The biscuits in the bottom of the cake do make the cake a little fragile. Ensure you line your cake tin with greaseproof paper to help keep it together, and take cake when assembling the cake.

Jammy Dodger Cake //

Thank you all so much for coming along with me for the last 200 posts. I hope you’ve enjoyed my sweet treats so far. I’m very excited to start planning and baking for the next 200!

 Jammy Dodger Cake


for the cake

115g butter, softened to room temperature

115g caster sugar

2 large eggs

115g plain flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

8 teaspoons of strawberry jam

6 jammy dodgers + 3 additional to decorate

for the buttercream

100g cream cheese, softened to room temperature

100g butter, softened to room temperature

200g icing sugar, sifted

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 tablespoons strawberry jam


Preheat the oven to 180c/ 160 fan /350f.

Grease and line 2 x 6 inch round tins.

In a large bowl, cream together your butter and sugar until light and fluffy.

Crack in one of your eggs, and sift in half of the flour. Mix to combine.

Repeat with the second egg, the remaining flour, and the baking powder. Beat in the vanilla extract.

Divide the mixture between the two prepared tins.

Spoon the strawberry jam evenly across the top of both tins. Using a knife or the handle of a spoon, gently swirl it through the cake batter.

Press the jammy dodgers into batter of one of the tins. You only want the biscuits to be in one layer of cake.

Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the cakes are risen, golden and firm to the touch. The layer with the jammy dodgers may take a little longer to bake. Note that it is difficult to test that this layer is done by inserting a skewer as the biscuits and the jam keep the cake quite wet inside and the skewer is unlikely to come out clean, even when the cake is baked through.

Cool for about 15 minutes in the tins, then turn out onto a wire rack and cool completely. Remember to take care when handling the cake layers, and assembling the cake, as the biscuits can make the sponge fragile.

Meanwhile, make the buttercream.

Cream together the butter and cream cheese until soft and smooth.

Add in the sifted icing sugar and combine. Start slowly, then beat once the icing sugar begins to become incorporated.

Once the buttercream is smooth and fluffy, beat in the vanilla extract.

Take your cooled cakes. If they have domed while baking use a knife or cake leveller to level the cakes.

Put the layer baked with the jammy dodgers onto the plate.

Top with 2 tablespoons of strawberry jam, then spread with half the buttercream.

Gently press the second layer of sponge on top of the buttercream.

Repeat the process, spreading on the jam first, then the buttercream.

Decorate with additional jammy dodgers.